Testaccio, the popular soul of Rome!
Testaccio is central and very convenient for visiting Rome, whether you are planning just a weekend or a few more days. Served both by Metro B (the Piramide stop is about a kilometer away) and by streetcars and buses, from Testaccio it is possible to walk to the center without too much effort. In fact, in half an hour’s walk, one can reach Piazza Venezia, crossing the Circus Maximus, or the Jewish Ghetto with a pleasant and comfortable stroll, walking along the Tiber embankment while admiring the Tiber Island. If you like to ride a bike, it is even better, since there is a bike path. Easy connections to stations and airports are then provided.
What makes Testaccio unique is its spirit, the air of Roman-ness that one still breathes through the streets of the neighborhood, perhaps listening to the chatter of its inhabitants on the street. Indeed, the neighborhood, with its popular roots, is still inhabited by Roman Docs, those who have Rome in their blood and belong to it. All this, together with some old stores with marble signs still standing, makes Testaccio a sight to behold. Stop in the morning to observe Piazza Testaccio, now the heart of the neighborhood with its Fountain of Amphorae, and savor this picture of Roman life. It will be difficult to find elsewhere.
Another unmissable stop is the Slaughterhouse, now a large cultural space run by the Azienda Speciale Palaexpo. Fascinating is to walk among its buildings, where the modern industrial style blends with the history and working-class origins of the neighborhood, and to observe the refurbished beams that were once used to transport animals. Temporary exhibitions and modern installations by artists are often featured here, giving the place a fresher, younger air.
In the morning, exactly opposite the Slaughterhouse, then drop by the New Testaccio Market. Walk among the colorful and neat fruit, bread, meat, and fish stalls, and take a look at the food stalls, one more well-kept than the other. Since the palate also wants its share, perhaps stop by and try a tripe or boiled meat sandwich. Or, if you prefer, opt for a fresh spinner and a slice of pizza. The beauty of this market, historic in the neighborhood albeit in its new location, lies precisely in combining tradition and novelty. Be sure to take a look between stalls at the ancient walls, which are visible under your feet in some parts of the market. Last stop on the mini itinerary is the Non-Catholic Cemetery.